Nightlife
Greenwich Village

Orient Express


This tiny, jewel-box space is perfect for a cozy cocktail date and a few bites. Ignore the forks in favor of your fingers to best enjoy thinly sliced pastirma, the favored air-cured beef of the Ottoman Empire. Hungarian sausage come with unnecessary pita triangles, as well as a bed of cabbage slaw perked up with bits of sour apple and black currant, which cut the fat of the meat. Only one dessert item appears on the menu, but it’s worth a taste: a recent Turkish coffee crème brûlée was surprisingly well executed, the perfectly crispy veil giving way to the intense, pungent, and not overly sweet cream. The cocktail list is inventive and interesting. Where the Sleeping Car, made with apricot-infused cognac, is a testament to sublety, the boozy Naglemackers packs a whallopping punch of flavor—and although the name is fun to say, you won’t be able to order it twice. — Lauren Bloomberg


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