The great man is not always behind the bar these days (his ambitious restaurant empire is ever-expanding), and thanks to a variety of factors (climate change, vanishing fish, etc.) the unique range of his sushi offerings is not what it used to be. But if you happen to have $1,000 ($595 for the most basic dinner, plus tax and the inevitable flutes of Champagne) burning a hole in your pocket, this great omakase temple is still worth visiting, provided you sit at the bar, not the dreary tables. — Adam Platt