Of course, if it’s spectacle you want, this is where to find it. The scripted homage to mid-20th-century Italian-american dining is pricey and dripping with shtick, but also undeniably fun and delicious — especially the table-side Caesar, the supercolossal veal Parmesan, the garlic-and-chile-suffused angel-hair pasta, and a limited-supply white lasagna sold by the $85 pan that could feed an entire crew of Gambinos. — Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite